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By DAR Spoilers
Lip, Pedestal, or Flush? Three Spoilers That Fit the Same Trunk A lot of owners don't realize their trunk can wear three completely different spoilers, ...
A lot of owners don't realize their trunk can wear three completely different spoilers, each one designed for that exact body, and each one changing the car's rear end in its own way. Same decklid. Same factory body lines.
Three looks that read totally different when you're walking up to the car in a parking lot.
If you've been scrolling the catalog for your year and model and seeing lip, pedestal, and flush options side by side, this is the breakdown you're after. None of them is "better." They solve different wants.
A lip spoiler hugs the trailing edge of the trunk and barely rises off the sheet metal. It follows the back edge of your decklid and adds a small, tight raise that most people read as "that's how it came from the factory," even though it's an OEM-style part, not a factory original.
This is the pick when you want the car to look finished without announcing anything. It's popular on sedans and sport coupes where the owner wants a sharper rear profile but doesn't want a tall wing in the rearview mirror. From ten feet back it reads as a crisp line, not an add-on.
Most lip styles on most trims go on with adhesive, so they're the no-drill end of the spectrum. Fit and whether any drilling is needed still vary by trim, so that's a check-before-you-order thing, not a promise.
A pedestal spoiler, sometimes called post-mounted, sits up on two or more risers so the blade floats above the trunk with daylight underneath. That gap is the whole point. It's the sportier, more aggressive of the three, and it's what most people picture when they hear the word "spoiler."
Because pedestal spoilers stand off the deck, they usually mount with bolts through the trunk, which means drilling on a lot of applications. That's not a downside, it's just the trade for a mounted-up blade that isn't going anywhere. Done to your specific model, the risers land where the factory body lines expect them, so the whole thing sits square instead of tacked on at an angle.
If you want your car to read "built" from across the lot, this is your spoiler. Just go in knowing the install is more involved than a stick-on lip.
Flush-mount splits the difference and does it well. You get more presence than a lip, with a taller, more defined blade, but it sits down on the trunk surface instead of floating on posts. No daylight gap underneath.
The look is deliberate and modern. It's a strong choice for owners who think a pedestal is a touch much for a daily driver but a lip isn't enough. It gives the rear real shape while still hugging the contour of the decklid it was built for.
Flush styles vary on install depending on the part and the trim, some adhesive, some bolt-on. That's exactly the kind of detail worth confirming on your specific application before you add it to the cart.
Here's where the trim talk earns its keep. Two owners can have the same model and the same year and still need different parts, because a base car and a sport-trim car can have different decklid contours, factory holes, or badge placement.
This is the thing our support team sorts out almost every day: someone's got the make, model, and year nailed down, but they're not sure whether their car is the trim the spoiler was cut for. That one answer decides whether a part sits flush at the ends or sits a hair proud. A quick call before checkout settles it, and we'd always rather get it right the first time than guess.
So when you're choosing between lip, pedestal, and flush, you're really making two decisions at once: the look you want, and the exact trim the part has to match. Nail both and the part sits like it belongs there.
Start with how loud you want the rear end to be. Lip for subtle and factory-clean, flush for defined-but-grounded, pedestal for the one that catches eyes first. That's the honest sort.
Then think about install. If you'd rather not drill, a lip or an adhesive flush style keeps you in no-drill territory on many trims. If you're set on a floating blade, a pedestal is worth the bolt-on job, and every order comes with written instructions and install videos for both the drill and no-drill methods, plus phone support if you hit a snag.
Whichever shape you land on, the part gets built for your exact vehicle. That's the DAR Spoilers approach, and it's the thing a universal part can't touch: a blade cut to follow your body lines instead of a one-size piece you're trying to coax into sitting flat.
Confirm your exact year, make, model, and trim. Not just "it's a sport model" from memory, the actual trim, because that's the detail that decides which of these three is cut for your car.
If you're going pre-painted, pull your factory paint code off the sticker in your driver's-side door jamb and drop it in the notes after you order. Verify it before you order so the match is exact, and if the code's faded or you're second-guessing it, reach out and we'll help you confirm it.
Keep in mind these are fiberglass and ABS aftermarket parts, so minor adjustments can happen on any given car. Building each one to a specific model is how that gets minimized, not a guarantee it never happens. Get the trim and the code right up front, and lip, pedestal, or flush, the part shows up ready to go on a trunk it was actually made for.